Bike and Beyond in Vigan City, Ilocos Sur

Ernie and Ahlie Celebrates 18th Anniversary as Bike and Beyond in Vigan City, Ilocos Sur

By Ernie Catanghal

By God's grace me and Ahlie has turned 18 last February 15 and we tried to make it a memorable one. We planned it to coincide with Bike and Beyond's charity project for the Mangyan tribal children of Mindoro. This kind of special project has been done already last year by yours truly where I have covered a total of 7,200 kilometers to campaign help for the poorest among the poor in the tribes of Mindoro.

INTRODUCTION

Just to give you an idea how Ahlie and I came up with the plan of how to celebrate our anniversary let me share to you a little about the ride-for-a-cause in this blog, but more of the chronicles of this bike event next time.

February 12, together with my very supportive friend and brother Bogs Manuela we set off for the planned duo ride. As mentioned this ride was intended to raise help for the Mangyan orphanage in Mindoro. Together we rode our folding bikes for six days straight from Pasig City (Manila) all the way to the northern tip of the country, Pagudpud of Ilocos Norte.


We started our ride early that Sunday morning with some of our biker friends. They offered to ride with us for one day. Our rally point was at Plaza Rizal in Pasig City and we have pedaled shoulder to shoulder all the way to Tarlac City which has totaled a distance of around 148 kilometers. After which the two of us were left there in Tarlac to continue and complete the remaining days of this long journey.

Left to right: Bernard Perez, Romy Marcelo, Allan Altamero, Bogs Manuela, Ernie Catanghal and Andy Intalan

The beautiful beach along the highway of San Esteban, Ilocos Sur 

Ernie and Bogs at the famous Bangui Windmills.

Finally, the much awaited Pagudpud Arch of Ilocos Norte! This is the last town up north in the Philippines.

February 17, at around 1:48pm after six days Bogs and I have successfully reached Pagudpud with a total distance of 625.2 kilometers. We have fulfilled our commitment to help, we have done our little share. We are just hopeful that other people will also do as we are praying the bike distance will be fully sponsored by others donating to the cause. 

THE VIGAN EXPERIENCE UNFOLDS

February 18, after that successful epic ride-for-a-cause it is then time to celebrate and meet my lovely wife Ahlie down at Vigan, Ilocos Norte. just a pedal back some 155kms from Pagudpud. Bogs went back with me to Vigan and from Vigan he took a bus back to Manila. So I was by myself by this time to wait for my wife as she took a bus from Manila to Vigan with her folding bike, of course. Since it was already past our real anniversary date this will be our special late celebration, as some would say: better late and special than just late. Around 6:45am at Vigan's Bus Terminal which is just beside the public market there I found her excitedly waiting for me with her folding bike (still folded) and all.

Ahlie's red folding bike is all set to roll now.

With no time wasted, as soon as we have unfolded her bike we rolled out to look for a good place to stay for just a couple of days. The bus terminal is just about 1.5 kilometers from the Heritage Village, the heart of tourism in Vigan and earlier while I was waiting for my wife I have already did some inquiries on places to stay. The locals have recommended a hotel with the cheapest price yet one of the most cozy one there, it is the Grandpa's Inn.

Both of us were so happy to ride our bikes through these Hispanic streets. 

It was a lovely sight to see her bike in this very famous village.

Her first kalesa (a horse drawn carriage) encounter on Calle Liberation.

At the corner of Quirino Blvd. and Calle Bonifacio we found the Grandpa's Inn. This will be our home away from home for a while. We have checked in for an air-conditioned room for two with TV, toilet and bath, and breakfast all just for 1,780 pesos for a night of stay. This hotel is located right at the heart of the Heritage Village of Vigan, just perfectly accessible to everything. 

The hotel lobby, very exquisite!

The interior of this hotel is very Spanish and they had a good selection of antique decors making every corner trully picture perfect. Once you are here you will never run out of spot to pose for a shot.

One of the best thing about this hotel is when the warm hotel staff offered us a safe bike parking space right at one corner of their lobby. With this we don't have to carry them all the way to our room or have to fold them every time. I can say this hotel is really bike-friendly, two thumbs up!

On the counter I placed all my latest epic ride collections: a lighthouse model of Burgos, a vintage clay bench of Vigan and the famous windmill of Bangui all from Ilocos, Philippines.

DAY 1

After securing our stuff inside the room we decided to start the day immediately and stretch a little by walking around this captivating place of Vigan. We went one street after the next and we had our hearts full, it was like walking inside a huge museum full of artifacts, just like that of The Venetian Hotel in Macau, China. 

This old brick road was constructed in the early 1500's.

In front of the monument of Leona Florentino, a Filipino poet in the Spanish and Ilocano languages. She is considered as the "mother of Philippine women's literature" and the "bridge from oral to literary tradition". 

The Vigan Cathedral

The Bell Tower of the Vigan Cathedral

Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia

Inside one of the many souvenir shops along the streets of Heritage Village.

The delectable "Sinanglao" of Ilocos for our lunch. It is like the Pinapaitan of Baguio City.

Another look at our hotel, this is time in the afternoon after we had some hefty lunch and a quick nap. We are setting out again to see more places this time. Two days of stay seems too brief to really enjoy the entire place. Gotta keep those precious moments pouring in. 

Our folding bikes blended well in this hotel lobby.

Antique piano and some wind instruments on the wall makes this corner fit for a musician.

Vigan is a relatively small city with two hearts: the recreational and shopping area around the adjacent Plaza Salcedo and Plaza Burgos in the north, and the commercial centre around its public market down south. The mestizo district where the big Spanish houses are is focused along Plaridel and Mena Crisologo Streets, running south from Plaza Burgos towards the cemetery.The streets here are quite narrow because they were originally designed by the Spaniard builders for mere calesa, karwahe and kartilla which were the only mode of transportation at that time.

The brick road of Calle Mena Crisologo.

 

Shopper's Lane, you can get your all sorts of souvenirs here along the Calle Crisologo, they also have some restaurants and coffee nooks here. A cool place to chill while you shop.

Ahlie holding an antique "plantsa" or flat iron which was heated by charcoal that is placed inside its metal base. During that time when this type of flat iron is still in use you'd need at least two irons on the go together for an effective system: one in use, and one re-heating. Large households with servants had a special ironing-stove for this purpose. Some were fitted with slots for several irons, and a water-jug on top.

 

A view of another shop just right from inside a shop across the road.

Afternoon delight! It's chill time for both of us as we have already enjoyed doing some window shopping and have secured some pasalubong (take home presents) for our kids back home. 

Enjoying the cool afternoon sun on an old bench along the street. What more could be better?

A sighting of another alien life form or could it be? A mountainbike parked inside one of the antique shops, definitely this bike is a standout as it doesn't blend well with woods and bricks.
Nevertheless it's still a beauty to the eye of a biker!

A collection of wooden gears which were typically used for crushing sugar canes during the Spanish Era. Today they are being used as garden or even indoor ornamental item.

Inside the Vigan Cathedral.

A stage in Plaza Salcedo for the Kannawidan Ylocos Festival.

February is the month of Ilocos Sur's "Kannawidan Ylocos Festival". Kannawidan means "traditions" and this province has so much richness in it when it comes to that. Vigan City is considered as the heart of rich traditions in the province. The event also has trade fair called the Partuat ken Patanor Trade Fair which showcased the products of the province such as longanisa, bagnet, garlic, bibingka, tinubong and many other foods including handicrafts.

The Vigan City Hall during day time in front of Salcedo Park.

The local mall in Vigan, the Plaza Maestro. This is where you can do your  "modernized" shopping.

After seeing the nearby places by foot we then decided to hire a calesa for 150 pesos only per hour to tour us around other attractions in and around this vintage city. When the kalesa was introduced in the 18th century during the Spanish colonial period, it became one of the modes of transportation in the Philippines, especially for commerce. Rich Filipinos known as the ilustrados used the kalesa for personal travel as well as for the transport of goods to nearby areas. The "kutsero" or calesa driver serves also as our tour guide as he explains where we are and what we are seeing. The calesa runs at a fair speed of 10-15kph, just ideal for sight seeing speed.

We brought along with us a box of "bibingka", an Ilocano sticky rice cake to munch during the tour ride. I got this small box with 8 pieces of rice cake only for 65 pesos from Teongson Royal Bibingka near Cafe Leona. 

Enshrined in the brick church is the miraculous and the greatly venerated image of the Nuestra Señora de Caridad, possibly the oldest Marian image in Ilocos. Unfortunately, the ivory parts of the 50-inch image (the head and hands) where stolen in 1928. 

The all-brick Bantay Bell Tower that sits on top of the hill that is 200 meters from the church building.

A calesa looks like an inclined cart. It has two round wheels on each side and two rows of seats that can accommodate four persons. The driver sits on a block of wood located at the front of the cart near the horse.

The Crissologo Museum if the late Congressman Floro Crisologo who was assasinated  inside the Vigan Cathedral.

Ahlie trying her hands on the late congressman's old typewriter. She was asking where's the monitor? Just kidding.

This is a "karwahe", used by the illustrados. A bigger version of the calesa with three rows of seats good for six persons. This cart is like a van to us nowadays. The smallest type of cart is called "kartilla".

At the sala of the late congessman.

After visiting some houses and museums we went to the local pottery shops in Pagburnayan. The root word “burnay” is an earthenware jar crafted by a potter’s hands with the aid of a potter’s wheel. It uses fine sand (anay) as a tempering material and fired at a high temperature in a huge brick-and-clay ground kiln that makes it is harder and more durable than other terra cotta. The local bagoong (fish sauce), sugarcane vinegar and basi wine would not taste as good if not fermented in stoneware “burnay” jars.

We visited one of the most famous potteries in the place, the Ruby Pottery which is owned and operated by Mr. Fidel Go, a direct descendant of the original Chinese potter who came to this town. Unfortunately, Mang Fidel was not around when we visited so we just decided we will just come back on our bikes the next day. For the meantime we were accomodated by one of his trusted workers, Bong-Bong. He took us to the pot making wheel and offered us a bench to sit on as we watch him demonstrate how to make a clay jar. Believe me, this is really good!

Bong Bong starting to work with a slump of clay.

His assistant started turning the stone wheel using his right foot as his right hand clings to a hanging metal ring which is used to prevent the person turning it from falling down as he exert some force in pushing the heavy stone turn table. 

Bong Bong started the work by dipping his hands in water inside the jar  beside him. This will keep his hands from sticking to the soft clay.

The clay started to take its form as Ahlie watches carefully, she will be next to make a clay jar.

Now it's her turn to do her own clay jar and she's loving it. She reminds me of Molly in the film Ghost characterized by Ms. Demi Moore. The only thing lacking is the background music of the Righteous  Brothers , the ageless "Unchained Melody", ditto!

Pretty hands for a jar maker.

Now it's Sam's turn, err, I mean it's my turn to do my stuff hehehe. 

Since I am not fond of conformity I want to do my own style, my own shape.

Boy, how I love doing this! I even asked Bong Bong if I can be an apprentice for a time in their pottery. I would really love to produce my own jar art.

The jars waiting for their turn in the kiln oven.

They are making both big jars and small ones of all sorts and shapes.

This is where they stock their raw materials, the dry clay or soil which were taken from the rice fields. Here the workers carefully condition the soil for consistency that will make it suitable for jar making.

This is where things get hotter, the pugon or oven, right down beneath us. These workers keep on throwing these fire woods to the fiery holes to keep the oven in an ideal temperature. They said the jars are cooked inside for 24 hours before they are cooled down for two weeks to make them ready for use. I swear this is not an easy job, it was really hot in here.

Right outside the work place there's a store where they sell their finished products. Ahlie is posing  with the framed photos of the younger Mr. Fidel Go at work. On the table are some of his plaques and awards received in pot making.

Our next destination is the Hidden Garden which is just a few kilometers from the Ruby Pottery. The place is a must-see specially for those nature and plant lovers. They have a wide variety of plant and flower species inside, some portions are like a mini tropical forest while some corners are designed as Zen gardens. They sell their plants at the price starting with 20 pesos and up, and the place has coffee shops too that serves one of our favorites - the Vigan spacial empanada (a stuffed bread wrap).

An empanada maker. "EMPANADA" or empanar, meaning to wrap or coat in bread. Empanada is made by folding a dough or bread patty around the stuffing. The stuffing consist of Vigan sausage, grated papaya, boiled mongo beans and a fresh chicken egg. We bought a couple of special orders of this for us.

After the exotic garden experience our Kutsero took us to the local private zoo owned and operated by the governor of Ilocos Sur, Chavit Singson, the BALUARTE Zoo. The word "baluarte" means stronghold or fortress, a walled territory.

This is not Arabia, this is Vigan.

They got camels that you can ride for few pesos, sorry we missed to ask how much but feeding them is already exciting enough. These camels are dromedary type meaning they got one hump and they came from the desert regions of Arabia. 

Ostriches are just walking and running around freely in this safari style zoo.

A deer for my dear!

The Shetland horses, they reminds me of the Hobbits in the Lord Of The Rings movie.

A ram is a very symbolic animal. It is known for strength, zealousness and purity.

They have several majestic Bengal tigers too.

From this point you can't help but to think of the Jurassic Park.

The wholesome-foursome! This Shetland type of horse breed are common in this zoo but the unusual thing about this picture is this black and white coated ram that sticks with these three cute horses wherever they go. If they walk the ram walk, when they stop it stops too. Maybe the ram thought he was a horse too.

The private "Yellow Submarine" of Gov. Chavit Singson, they also call it "The Treasure Hunter".

They got beautiful small to large "New World" birds too. A macaw parrot behind Ahlie is one of the attractions there for its flashy antics and friendliness. They got other bird species too which are all very tame, you can have them stand on your finger, arm or shoulder and take some pictures with them. Just don't feed them with your ears, okay?

Ahlie trying to do some tricks with these two giant birds. Ostrich is a flightless bird that has long neck and legs that help them to run as fast as 70kph top speed. They also own the biggest bird egg in our time. 

The time for us to go back to the hotel has come so we went where our calesa was patiently waiting for us at the parking area. It was a sulit (worth it) calesa tour around Vigan! We were able to see all the beautiful tourist spots around in fashion and in less time. 

Ahlie with our tour guide kutsero, Manong Chris. Salamat po ng marami (thank you very much)! 

Back in Grandpa's Inn we just refreshed a little and changed the batteries of our digital camera. It was still early in the afternoon when we got back so we sat by the "sala" of the hotel at the second floor and tried to plan out what to do next for the remaining time of the day.

Ahlie suggested to have a little coffee break and it was great to know there's a Mocha Blend just a few steps away from the corener of Calle Crisologo. What a treat on a very gorgeous sunset brick road.

We matched our coffee with empanadas which we got from the Hidden Garden cafeteria a earlier. How we wish we can also get this Vigan empanada in Manila because it blends so well with coffee, we are already craving for it now as I write this blog.

Right after having some coffee break we dropped by Isands Souvenirs shop to look for a nice shirt for us. The last time we had a shirt from them was many years back in Baguio City.

It's time for our bikes to roll again as we took them outside for a little night ride around the Spanish village. The ambiance and the weather both provides a very cool romantic mood for bikers like us.

Right in front of our gorgeous hotel.

The old Singer Sewing Machine shop along Calle Bonifacio. We used to have a sawing machine like this when I was still little. I just can't forget when my little finger got caught by the needle, ouch!

In front of Vigan Cathedral, the darkness of the night and the dim street lights creates a very special effect to the eye. It creates a feeling of being back in time.

The Arzobispo Nueva Segovia building. Nueva Segovia is the name of the archdiocese now located in the venerable and historic town of Vigan in Ilocos Sur.   

Sitting around Plaza Salcedo, the version of our Plaza Rizal in Pasig. But I should say our plaza in Pasig is more elaborate  than  this one but the monument in this Vigan plaza is authentically old from the Spanish era dating back 1500's. 

The City Hall of Vigan at night.

Biking along the brick road of Calle Crisologo.

A very relaxing moment for us, just parking our bikes on the sidewalk and sitting on an antique bench.

After doing this unique and unforgettable night ride we dined at Uno Grille just in front of our hotel. We had pinakbet with "bagnet" (special Ilocos crispy pork belly) and Vigan langonisa (sausage) for dinner. We will never get tired of having these Ilocano specialties, tastes so differently good it will linger in your taste buds for a long time!

Before finally calling it a day we dropped our bikes in the hotel and went outside once more for a little late night walk. After 10pm the streets here in Heritage Village are already very quiet, shops closed, not so much people walking around and the streets are clear. We were able to gaze at the moonlight with so much bliss.

Only Calle Crisologo has very ample street lighting even beyond touring hours. The cool white lamp which is yellowish in color gives the street a more classic touch late at night. The rest have ordinary street lamps that are widely spaced from each other just like ordinary streets in Manila. With this open street we were able to set up our mini camera tripod and take some pictures of us with ease.

Finally the day is over, and it seemed like it was not just a day. We were so much filled with many pleasures just in a matter of a day. This place is very much blessed with so many special things. As we go back to our hotel we had a small chat nearby the "tisa" (red brick) window, and all our lips can say is, "thank you Lord for such a privilege to enjoy our time here in Vigan for our 18th Anniversary. 

DAY 2

February 19, this is bike day! Wearing our Bike And Beyond shirt we headed to the hotel's dinning hall for our breakfast which is already inclusive in checking in. It is Sunday and we only have till 12 noon to explore further on our folding bikes.

These photos on canvas are all interesting as I couldn't help but to give a closer look.

My breakfast, it's fried garlic rice matched with Vigan langonisa with egg, tomatoes and atchara.

Ahlie's morning treat is fried garlic rice with tapa, egg, tomatoes and atchara.

As soon as we were done with our breakfast we headed south bound through Quirino Blvd. On this day we will be revisiting the Baluarte Zoo and the Ruby Pottery of Mr. Fidel Go.

Along the road we happen to pass by a car wash station and so I decided to give my bike a little bath since it got so dirty in our six day ordeal from Pasig to Pagudpud. Got to give him a little break for this bike day.

A well-deserved bike wash for my epic buddy.

Boy, what a relief!

Our friendly bike washers who gave my bike a very good treat.

Gotta keep moving. After the well-deserved wash we tried to trace our way back to Baluarte Zoo. It was good there were plenty of road signage along the way, finding it was cushy.

At the entrance of Baluarte Zoo, this time on bike.

Initially when we approached the main entrance the security personnel told us that bike is not allowed beyond the main hall and are supposed to be left in the parking space outside, but when we politely explained to them about the safety issues of our bikes and our intention of promoting bike tourism they immediately ushered us inside and even encouraged us to ride our bike around the zoo.

Inside the Zoo, the friendly staff allowed us to take our bikes inside.

See those freely roaming exotic birds around Ahlie and our bikes?

Bikers, welcome to Baluarte Zoo!

Gorgeous indeed!

Here bikes and wild animals do mix up well.

The ordinary zoo visit turned out to be a "BIKE SAFARI" experience.

This dromedary camel is always ready for a mugshot with us.

What an awesome experience for both of us. We never thought we can do a bike safari in Vigan. Ahlie really enjoyed riding along deers, ostriches, horses, lamas, camels, etc. If only every biker can experience this too...

Posing with some ancient British cannons.

The Lamas are Ahlie's favorite among all the animals here.

The treasured vessels: the governor's yellow submarine and our white and red folding bikes.

It's cookoo time! This macaw bird is truly a joy. All you got to this is raise your arm and the bird will easily hop into it. Just be sure you're skin is not that delicate because they got pretty long sharp claws.

This is Dante, the Zoo keeper who assisted us with these dazzling birds.

After that rare and unforgettable "bike safari" experience at the zoo we then continued our bike ride, this time to revisit the potteries.

Along the road we were enticed by this huge gorgeous old acacia tree which is by a stone bridge going to Calle Katipunan. We can't help but to stand by for a while and enjoy the view in front of us which is a wide rice field while cooling down to a very mild northern breeze. We tried to immagine I am Crisostomo Ibara and Ahlie is Maria Clara (on bikes).

“Burnay” technology was brought to Vigan by Chinese artisans, who, according to Vigan folk historian Damaso King, came from Kwi-Sao, Chun-chiu province in Mainland China. As such, it may have existed in the area even before the coming of the Spaniards in 1572. These Chinese artisans who set up this cottage industry depended on the natives for their clay supply and labor.

 

Mr. Fidel Go, owner of the Ruby Pottery and direct descendant of the first Chinese potter who came to Vigan, has his own account of the “burnay” industry’s history in Vigan. In 1998, he was one of the 100 Filipino artist given the Centennial Award, a once-in-a-lifetime recognition for local arists.  The National Commission for Culture and Arts declared him as a National Folk Artist.

The tapayan is a big clay jar used to store liquids.

We had a great time talking to Mang Fidel as we had so much stories shared even beyond potteries and jar making. It was indeed an honor to chat and know a person like him. Before we leave Mang Fidel gave us a "pakimkim" (present) of three small uniquely shaped jars. We will trully cherish these priceless gifts. As we waved our hands goodbye to Mang Fidel we know in our hearts very well that we will never forget him, not in this lifetime.

It was almost noon time then, time has flown so fast! We have to rush back to the hotel to pack up our things for the scheduled 12:30pm bus trip to Manila. So hard to turn around and leave but we got to go.

Ahlie on the way back to the hotel through our favorite brick road, the Calle Crisologo.

Upon reaching the hotel we just put everything in our panniers and install them on our bikes and we are off to go. It was really easy to pack up since we have very few things with us in this trip, what was not easy for us to do is to leave because of how we were embraced by this city even just for a short while.

Just few more fixing and the bike is ready for the bus station.

Before leaving, the desk officer of Grandpa's Inn offered to take a picture of us in front of the hotel. This will be a picture to remember, a picture that will remind us of the richness and glory of this vintage city, the Heritage Village of Vigan.

At the Partas Bus Terminal, we were just on time as the bus to Manila was just about to leave. So we immediately folded our bikes and slid it in one of the bus' big compartments below together with our big panniers. This gave the people in the terminal a big surprise when our bikes suddenly transformed just like that, like the robots in the movie "Transformers", they can't help but to smile at us on how we did it.

Our bikes and bags neatly tucked inside the bus compartment.

As we boarded our bus what we can do is just to look back again and remember how good the Lord to us for the wonderful Vigan experience. Very brief yet so much filled with precious experiences. With our folding bikes it will always be easy to leave but it won't be easy to forget, so we pray that one day our bikes will roll us again back to this amazing city of Vigan.

Happy Anniversary Ahlie! May the Lord bless us always, to bike and beyond!

If you find this blog lovely you might be very interested to see this also:

A Bike Ride From Pasig To Pagudpud of Ilocos Norte For The Mangyan Tribes